* How do you get the car in the hoops?

Lift or raise the body shell with a two-post hoist or floor jack and jack stands, etc. Slip the hoops around the front and rear of the body shell at the suspension areas or firewall and then build the jigs from the hoops to the car. An instructional DVD and 36 page Owner's Manual is included with the Roller Hoop to aid you in set up and operation.
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* How do you balance the car?

Centering most body shells a few inches below the center-line is very close. The center of gravity continually changes as you remove and install different body panels such as doors, quarters, floors etc. The hoops act as a continuous handle when rotating the car and provides great leverage which helps control the body shell as it moves. The balancing of convertibles and wagons are also explained in the instructional video and owners manual.
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* How much weight will it hold?

It is designed to operate safely and hold the weight of a stripped down body shell; less than 2500 lbs.
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* Will my large body car fit in it?

Yes, the standard hoop has a 7'3" outside diameter which is the size that we used for both the 65' Chevelle Wagon and the 69' Dodge Superbee. We do also offer a 7'9" outside diameter hoop which is the size we used for the 63" Galaxie.
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* Can you roll the hoops directly on the ground?

Yes, the hoop is steel and will roll over many surfaces, but of course should only be used on flat and level surfaces. Our media-blaster will roll it directly on the ground, with no moving parts for him to worry about.
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* How can I transport a body shell in the Roller Hoop?

The Roller Hoop should be securely strapped to the car trailer and can be transported safely within reasonable distances while up in the hoops and the legs attached.
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* Is it designed to be a one-person operation?

One person can easily rotate the body shell and lock it in place with one of the foot-operated brakes. One person can also transfer the hoops from the roller-bases to the legs with swivel casters.
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* Why would I need the complete system instead of the basic system?

You would only need the complete system if you would want to move the Roller Hoop around the shop or up on a trailer. If you plan on using the system in one place throughout your restoration, you would only need the basic system. Please go to the pricing page to see what is included in the complete and basic systems.
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* Can you paint a car in it?

Yes, you can. I prefer to paint and detail the floor pan while up in the hoops and finish final block-sanding. Then, remove the hoops and install the suspension, do final panel alignment then mask the body and paint. This is a preference of mine after doing 30 years of restoration work. Your process may vary.
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* Can you media-blast a car in it?

Yes, just roll the hoops directly on the ground while blasting. We don't use the roller-bases while blasting so that sand or media does not get in any of the moving parts.
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* Can I leave the engine, suspension, etc. in the car?

The suspension can be left in the car, but the body shell will need to sit a little higher in the hoops to keep it balanced properly. The engine or transmission is not recommended to be left in.
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* Will it fit in my garage?

You will need approximately 7' 10" of clearance to roll in and out of a doorway while the hoops are attached to the legs. 8' ceiling height is fine for operation inside of the garage.
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* How do you ship it?

It ships with the hoops bundled together and the rest in either a pallet or box, via truck freight. It weighs approximately 430lbs. We use a discount shipper with reasonable rates. Please call or e-mail for a freight quote.
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* Are jigs included in the price of the system?

No, we have a jig kit available at additional cost, but most of what you need to build your own jigs can be purchased at your local hardware store. The jigs are unique to each different make and model of body shell. We plan on offering jig kits for some popular bodies, please watch our web site for updates.
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* So, I have to build my own jigs?

Yes, the owners manual describes how to build the jigs with lots of photos and a DVD of us building jigs will help you get up and rolling.
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* How long does it take to set up the jigs?

Building a set of jigs may take the better part of a work day. The DVD has many helpful tips to guide you in that process.
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* Can you weld the jigs directly to the body?

Yes, a tack-weld here and there is fine, as long as they are in a structurally sound area of the car. I prefer to use existing bolt holes, but in some cases there may not be any and then a pinch weld clamp can be made and used (also described in the manual).
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* Can I have the pieces in any color?

We currently offer the bases and legs in blue-gray industrial paint. You can order them in bare steel and paint or powder coat them yourself. Please call or e-mail if you have a specific color request.
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* How do I store the Roller Hoop when I am not using it?

You can hang the hoops on the wall in your shop and the rest of the system takes up little space in storage. But once you own a Roller Hoop don't expect it to sit idle, you'll want to perform another restoration or your buddies will want to use it. It is yours, so feel free to rent it out.
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* If I want to restore two cars at once, do I need two complete systems?

You can benefit greatly by buying two additional hoops and maybe two additional roller-bases. Since the other pieces such as the legs, jacking arm, and hoop holders will not be used as often, you only need one set.
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* Can the Roller Hoop be used for anything besides cars?

We have a couple of customers that use their Roller Hoop systems to build small trailers. It can also be used for boat or airplane restoration or repair, or to work on only the frame of the vehicle.
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* Where can I buy the Roller Hoop?

Currently the Roller Hoop is available through DSK Auto Products, LLC. in Lincoln, Nebraska.
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* What is the warranty?

There is a one year limited warranty.
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* What are the benefits of the Roller Hoop over other types of rotisseries?

Most any well built rotisserie can be a great asset when used to restore classic car bodies, and will help you archive great results. Ours just happens to be "a new spin on an old concept" of rotating a body shell to perform the repairs. I have used many conventional rotisseries over my thirty-some years of restoring cars. And like many of you, I have also built my own end-mount style unit that worked fine. But I decided to develop the Roller Hoop to address some of our specific needs as mentioned below:

Shop Space -The Roller Hoop takes up less space in our shop since it does not add any length to the car body, therefore we can have more room for additional vehicles in our shop and still have room to maneuver.

Jigs - Yes just like the other rotisseries you will need to build jigs or brackets! At some point and time, we will develop a set of jigs for some popular cars. Until then we offer an illustrated 36 page handbook and a DVD fully explaining how to set up the Roller Hoop and build a set of jigs.

Less Stress - Since the Roller Hoop mounts inboard to the body shell in a more natural manner, it reduces the stress load especially on convertibles. We don't use adjustable door braces bolted in place of the door to hold the car from sagging. The body shell is well supported throughout it's rotation since it's weight is dispersed by the jigs spoke-like configuration.

Media-blaster Friendly- Our media blaster loves this new system, he can simply roll the body shell while mounted in the hoops directly on the ground. With no moving parts to worry about getting clogged with sand. The body shell is balanced so he can simply push it with one hand as he does the blasting. And because there is very little stress on the body shell, I can have all the rusty areas cut open and even both quarter panels removed at the same time! This saves our shop a lot of time.

More Efficient - Now with the Roller hoop I can cut and trim out any and all rusty areas and get the body shell completely cleaned up in one trip, saving a lot of time. And my blasting bill has decreased because it is much more efficient for them as well since it only requires one technician to blast and roll the body shell. Unlike the conventional rotisseries that required several guys to stop and reposition the body then lock in place with a bolt etc. Also, they needed to protect the tower and the greased up pipe and hydraulic jack so a lot of needless time was spent prepping to protect from the blasting.

Easy Trailer Loading - Many of our restorations are typical rusty Nebraska bodies that need to make a trip to the media blaster. The Roller Hoop is extremely easy to load on the car trailer with the detachable caster legs. Since the Hoops are very solidly mounted to the body There is no bar connecting the bottom of the two hoops together, which on a traditional end-mount rotisserie the connecting bars /tube would high centered on the trailer when loading a body shell, plus we always felt it was a necessary to place a center support under the body shell, and on a long body we had to extend some planks to the rear of the trailer.

Simple to Rotate and Lock - With the four foot-operated brakes, there is no need to leave your work area to go to the end of the unit to unlock or loosen a bolt etc. No need to carry a wrench in your pocket just wear some good shoes or boots and let your foot do the job. It is very easy to make small adjustments in the rotation when needed,this is a huge advantage when doing serious restoration work you never realized how much time was spent moving around until you use this system. The hoop also acts as a handle to rotate the rotisserie. There is no need to touch the car and the hoop gives you great control and leverage.

i have found so many more benefits after using this system for the past four years that I could go on for a while, but I'll leave it at that, feel free to call us or email with a specific concern or question.